Nimsdai Purja achieves his 50th summit of an 8,000-meter peak
Nimsdai Purja sets a new mountaineering record on Pakistan’s Nanga Parbat, achieving his 50th 8,000-meter summit, 22 without supplemental oxygen.
PC: Photo Courtesy: Nimsdai's Facebook
Renowned mountaineer Nimsdai Purja has achieved a historic milestone as the first person to summit 8,000-meter peaks 50 times, with summit of Pakistan’s Nanga Parbat (8,126m) on July 3, according to expedition operator Elite Exped.
Purja reached the summit without using supplemental oxygen, marking his 22nd ascent of an 8,000-meter peak without it.
This marks his second ascent of the world’s ninth-highest peak, also known as the "Killer Mountain", without supplemental oxygen. This climb is part of his unique “hat-trick” challenge to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks thrice, a feat never before attempted.
“This was one of the most dangerous expeditions I’ve ever faced. The weather was brutal—65+ km winds, blue ice that wouldn’t hold a crampon, and constant rockfall. It tested everything,” Purja posted on his Instagram.
The expedition also serves as a fundraiser for the Nimsdai Foundation, which has been building a porter shelter in Lobuche.
Purja launched his 'historic challenge' from Kanchenjunga (8,586 m), the world’s third-highest peak, under similarly challenging conditions. “The conditions above camp have been extremely tough, with deep snow and difficult terrain—more crevasses than usual. We worked hard to fix our lines and manage the risks, skillfully avoiding avalanches while maneuvering around rocks and the occasional snow drift,” he wrote in a Facebook update.
Purja first gained global recognition in 2019 by climbing all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks in just six months and six days—a record that stood until 2023, when Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama completed the feat in only 92 days. In 2024, he once again made headlines by summiting all 14 peaks without the use of supplemental oxygen.
Also summiting Nanga Parbat on the same expedition was Qatari climber Asma Al Thani, who completed her ninth 8,000-meter climb. Following the summit, Al Thani was appointed as Pakistan’s Ambassador for Mountains and Tourism by Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif.
“Pakistan’s mountains have shaped my journey, from the power of Nanga Parbat to the beauty of K2. Each climb has pushed me further, and I’m proud to carry this message forward,” Al Thani said.
Elite Exped organized her climb, making her the first Arab woman to achieve this feat.
Both climbers highlighted the extreme challenges of summiting Nanga Parbat, citing unpredictable weather, high winds, blue ice, and constant rockfall. “It tested everything: skill, patience, endurance, and trust,” Purja shared in an Instagram post.
Asma, who is pursuing the challenge of climbing all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks, described Nanga Parbat as one of her toughest ascents. “This mountain tested me in ways I didn’t expect—from black ice beneath my feet to rockfall every few seconds. A constant reminder of how fragile life truly is,” she wrote in an Instagram post.
Despite the challenges, over a dozen climbers reached the summit this season. Tragically, celebrated Czech climber Klára Kolouchová went missing after a fall during her descent above Camp II
