Nepali mountaineer Pemba Gelje Sherpa on Wednesday summited Mount Manaslu (8,163m) in 12 hours, that too without using bottled oxygen, setting a new record of speed climb of the world’s eighth highest mountain. 

“Pemba finished his speed climb of Manaslu in 12 hours,” said Dawa Futi Sherpa, Operation Manager at the Imagine Nepal Treks and Expedition, expedition organizer. 

According to her, Pemba started the climb from base camp at 7pm on 26th September and reached the summit at 7am the following day. 

The fastest climb recorded in Manaslu was previously held by Italian climber Francois Cazzanelli who did it in 13 hours in 2019. He set a record for completing the round trip from base camp to Manaslu summit and back in 17 hours 43 minutes. 

Pemba belongs to a new crop of climbers with vision to promote adventure tourism and expedition in the country, said Dawa. 

Pemba, who hails from Solukhumbu district, is a certified IFMGA mountain guide. The 31-year-old climber has already made 21 ascents of 8,000ers while leading clients including six ascents of Mount Everest. He is emerging as one of the most successful guides to lead expeditions in the Himalayas.