Spring expeditions are in full swing, especially Everest region teeming with climbers, guides and trekkers. Over 2,000 climbers, guides and high-altitude workers are currently living in Everest base camp, mainly to summit Mount Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. By Sunday, about 200 climbers reached the summit of Everest and Lhotse. Everest Chronicle conducted a video interview with Khimlal Gautam, Chief of the Expedition Monitoring and Facilitation Field Office, who has been managing the flow of climbers and maintaining order on the world’s highest peak, to discuss the progress of the expedition, measures taken to prevent potential traffic jams on the mountain, and allegations and controversies involving high-profile expeditions.
EVEREST CHRONICLE: How is the spring expedition season going on at Mount Everest?
KHIMLAL GAUTAM: The spring season has been ongoing for more than 50 days now. Expedition agencies and Sherpas initially tackled main challenges in preparation, such as opening routes through Khumbu Icefall and fixing climbing lines to the summit. Rope fixing task was completed by May 10 this season, and summit push for commercial climbers began from the following day. The first wave of the summit push was brief, with around 100 successful ascents from May 11 to May 14. The second weather window has now started, resulting in 89 additional successful ascents. As of May 19, around 200 people have climbed Mount Everest. Reports from various weather agencies indicate that the weather will be favorable until May 25.
Nepal has issued 419 climbing permits, which causes people to panic about potential congestion on the way leading to tragedy in the mountain. What is being done to avoid potential traffic jams at Mount Everest this season?
Nearly 65% of climbers will attempt to summit from May 20 to May 23. Based on summit plan reports, we expect heavy traffic on May 21. Today (Monday), more than 150 climbers are heading to camp IV, aiming to reach the summit tomorrow morning. So, Everest is likely to witness a major crowd of climbers Tuesday morning (May 21). Therefore, we have asked expedition operators to coordinate among themselves to move their group in a gap of at least 2 hours during the summit push.
The Department of Tourism recently said that it was looking into the allegation that Nimsdai Purja’s Elite Exped allowed clients to climb Everest without a permit. Could you tell us how far the investigation has progressed?
We have noted media reports alleging Elite Exped allowing its clients to climb Everest without climbing permits. We also checked social media posts of some climbers who are seen doing climbing practice at Khumbu Icefall. One should take climbing permits for Everest, or Lhotse or Nuptse to practice in Khumbu Icefall. DoT’s field office has received several formal and informal grievances concerning the permits for Lingtren Peak. Of 11 climbers of the team, only two climbers are said to have obtained permits. We were alerted that some in the group climbed up to Camp III, as they were planning to climb Mount Everest next year. It might be just a confusion arising from lack of coordination or intentional, we have not reached a conclusion. Elite Exped is a reputed company led by world’s finest athletes like Nimsdai Purja and Mingma David Sherpa. I am sure they know the rules and abide by them. The agency’s liaison officer has reported to us that he was not allowed to meet the climbers or provided with clear information. It is rather concerning.
So, did the climbers who had permits for Lingtren actually climb Mount Everest?
We do not have conclusive proof of it. We cannot make charges based on newspaper reports. As the chief monitoring official, I must provide factual and verified information sanctioned by my superior officer at the DoT. Thus, I must reiterate that we have not received substantive proof regarding the Lingtren permits. However, we have taken the grievances seriously.
Why do you think Nimsdai Purja has been drawn into controversy almost every year? This year, there were also allegations about an illegal helicopter flight to Camp II by Elite Exped?
I have seen media reports about various controversies. Since I am in the field, I can’t confirm whether the DoT is aware of or has taken any action on these matters. We have received grievances about not registering with the national park and municipality or directly taking helicopters without permission. Lack of information sharing might be a reason for these issues. Another reason could be his popularity and constant scrutiny from other agencies. We are coordinating with the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation, and the Department of Tourism to study these grievances. We have no jurisdiction to regulate and monitor helicopter flights. It is the sole jurisdiction of the Civil Aviation Authority of Nepal.
What is the field office doing then?
We have been enforcing rules within our jurisdiction. For instance, we have seized drones being used illegally and sent them to Kathmandu. Such illegal drone use increases the risk of collision with helicopters. We have also taken action against two Argentinian women working as kitchen staff at the base camp without permission. We have addressed grievances from climbers, clients, and expedition agencies. We are doing everything possible to ensure that rules are respected.
