Valery Babanov summits Everest at 60, capping illustrious Alpinism career
The two-time Piolet d’Or winner reached the world’s highest peak on May 19, marking a new milestone in his four-decade legacy of high-altitude achievements.
Renowned Russian mountaineer Valery Babanov has successfully reached the summit of Mount Everest at the age of 60, expedition organizers confirmed.
According to his outfitter Seven Summit Treks, Babanov stood atop the 8,848.86-metre (29,031.7 feet) peak at 5:40 a.m. local time on May 19.
Babanov is widely regarded as one of the foremost figures in modern alpinism. Over a climbing career that spans more than 40 years, he has completed numerous technical first ascents in the Himalayas, the Alps, and other major mountain ranges.
His climbs are noted for their boldness, innovation, and commitment to alpine style—a minimalist and self-sufficient approach to mountaineering.
Although his original plan was to summit the peak without using supplemental oxygen, he ended up using it as a last resort. In a post on Facebook, he wrote, "It was not an easy decision to deviate from the main plan and put on an oxygen mask. But I always considered this option as a last resort."
He is a two-time recipient of the Piolet d’Or, the most prestigious award in international mountaineering. Babanov earned the honor for his groundbreaking solo ascent of Meru Central in 2001 and for the first ascent of Nuptse East in 2003, which he achieved with fellow Russian climber Yuri Koshelenko.
His successful Everest ascent marks the addition of the world’s highest mountain to most extreme climbs, which includes technical climbs on peaks such as Kumbhakarna (Jannu), Kangtega, and Chomo Lonzo.
According to Nepal's Department of Tourism, a total of 468 climbers obtained permits to attempt Everest during the 2024 spring climbing season, making it one of the busiest seasons on record.