Tyler Andrews aborts Everest speed climb attempt
American mountaineer Tyler Andrews turns back from Camp IV on fifth no-oxygen speed ascent bid, citing deep snow and worsening conditions.
American ultra-runner and mountaineer Tyler Andrews has aborted his latest attempt to summit Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen, turning back from Camp IV due to deep snow, according to his team.
Andrews' companion, Chris Fisher, shared in an Instagram story that heavy snow above Camp IV made the summit push impossible. While two of their Sherpa team members scouted the route above Camp IV, Andrews rested at the camp. After assessing the conditions, the team decided to retreat.
This marked Andrews’ fifth attempt to break the no-oxygen speed ascent record on Everest. The current record—20 hours and 24 minutes—was set by Nepali climber Kaji Sherpa in 1998. Before Kaji, French climber Marc Batard held the record at 22 hours and 29 minutes, set in 1988.
In his fourth attempt earlier this week, Andrews had turned back from Camp III after reaching 7,400 meters, citing unstable snow and a growing avalanche risk. Just three days later, on September 25, he launched his fifth attempt, making it as far as Camp IV before worsening conditions forced another retreat.
During the spring season, he had reached near the South Summit before high winds and a limited weather window compelled him to turn back. This spring was marked by particularly unpredictable weather, with brief summit windows and persistently strong winds. Andrews made three attempts during the spring alone.
Following the crowded spring season, he returned for a rare autumn attempt, when Everest is significantly less trafficked—but also less forgiving.
This autumn saw a historic achievement by Polish mountaineer Andrzej Bargiel, who became the first person to ski down Everest without supplemental oxygen on September 22. His descent marked his seventh successful ski descent of an 8,000-meter peak, completing all four 8,000ers in the Karakoram, along with Shishapangma and Manaslu.
Whether Andrews will make another attempt this season remains uncertain. With weather windows narrowing and conditions rapidly deteriorating, time is running short. Still, his persistence and elite endurance continue to bring him closer to his goal.
