Sirbaz Khan becomes first Pakistani to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen
Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan makes history by conquering Mount Kangchenjunga without supplementary oxygen, completing all 14 of the world’s highest peaks.
Renowned Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan reached the summit of Mount Kangchenjunga, the world’s third-highest mountain, on Sunday at 5:00 am (Nepal Time), without using supplemental oxygen, as confirmed by the Alpine Club of Pakistan.
This remarkable achievement etches Sirbaz Khan’s name in mountaineering history, making him the first Pakistani climber to conquer all 14 of the world’s eight-thousanders without the aid of supplemental oxygen.
His success on Mount Kangchenjunga is not just a personal milestone but a historic accomplishment for Pakistan’s mountaineering community.
Sirbaz’s ascent of Kangchenjunga was part of the Imagine Nepal Kangchenjunga Expedition. Completing this formidable climb in pure alpine style — without bottled oxygen — places Sirbaz among an elite group of global climbers who have achieved the feat of scaling all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen.
Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, lauded Sirbaz’s achievement, stating, “Completing all 14 eight-thousanders without oxygen is a rare and heroic achievement. He is a symbol of Pakistani resilience, skill, and courage on the highest peaks of the world.”
Hailing from the Aliabad area of Hunza in Gilgit-Baltistan, Sirbaz Khan’s journey in mountaineering began in 2016. His career has been marked by unwavering determination and courage. In 2019, he became the first Pakistani climber to summit Mount Lhotse (8,516 meters), the world’s fourth-highest peak, without supplemental oxygen.
