Everest guide Chhiring sets record, eyes more
At 42, Nepal’s Pema Chhiring Sherpa becomes the most successful IFMGA-certified climber on Everest — and he may just be getting started.
PC: Pema's Instagram
Pema Chhiring Sherpa, a high-altitude guide from Nepal’s Rolwaling Valley, climbed Mount Everest for the 24th time on Sunday, setting a new record for the most ascents by a mountain guide certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA).
The 42-year-old, who led a Chinese expedition team for 8K Expeditions, reached the summit at around 6:30 a.m. on Sunday, according to expedition leader Lakpa Sherpa. The climb makes Chhiring the most accomplished IFMGA guide on the world’s highest mountain.
Born and raised in Beding in Gaurishankar rural municipality of Dolakha district, Sherpa first summited Everest in 2001 at just 17. He began his career as a porter and high-altitude worker before receiving formal mountaineering training in 2009. He earned his IFMGA certification in 2018.
Pema now holds the record for the most Everest ascents among more than 7,000 IFMGA-certified guides across 28 countries, according to the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA). The association praised the achievement in a Facebook post on Monday, writing: “Congratulations !!! Mr. Pema Chhiring Sherpa for being the first ever IFMGA guide to make most Mt. Everest Ascent.”
Sherpa has twice summited Everest in a single season on four separate occasions — 2004, 2006, 2017, and 2021 — and has also climbed several other major Himalayan peaks, including Mt Manaslu (11 times), Cho Oyu (6 times), K2 and Shishapangma (2 times each), and single ascents of Mt Lhotse and Gasherbrum II.
Despite his record, Sherpa is still considered relatively young in the guiding community. If his career continues until 50s, he may challenge renowned climbing guide Kami Rita Sherpa’s all-time record of 30 Everest summits — the current benchmark in Himalayan climbing.
Before departing on his latest expedition, Sherpa said he dedicated the climb “to all mountain guides, especially from my home in Rolwaling.”
Pemba Sherpa, Chairman of 8K Expeditions, called Chhiring a “quiet leader” with unmatched technical ability and experience in high-altitude operations, including critical rope-fixing duties on major peaks.
This spring season, Nepal’s government issued 468 Everest permits to foreign climbers who are accompanied by at least one guide and hundreds of other support staff to shuttle loads.
