Nepali climbing guide Sanu Sherpa scaled Mount Makalu (8,485m) on Saturday morning becoming the only person to climb 13 of the world's highest peaks twice, his expedition organizer said. 

"Sanu dai reached the summit of Mount Makalu at 7.30 am. Team of four climbers led by Mingma Dorchi Sherpa stood atop the mountain after 8 am this morning," said Nivesh Karki, general manager of his outfitter Pioneer Adventure.

Sanu Sherpa is just one peak short to becoming the world's first mountaineer to summit all 14 peaks twice, never done in mountaineering history before. Now, Gasherbrum II (8,035) is the only peak left for him to summit to complete his double ascent victory of 14 peaks above 8,000 m.

Sanu finished summit of all 14 of the 8,000-meter peaks for the first time in 2019. "I had also already climbed seven 8,000 meter peaks twice then," he told Everest Chronicle in an interview before heading out for Lhotse. "Climbing all 14 peaks twice was not on my mind until other climbers started suggesting me to do it."

Born in Shankhuwasabha in a poor family, he never had any aspirations for world record. He started out as a porter to earn money for his family. His very first mountaineering climb was Shisapangma (8,027m). Even though he did not start out deliberately as a mountain climber, he says that fell in love with climbing. "I simply love climbing. It feels so good to be in the mountain. Climbing peak is an easy task for me. So, I decided to give the 14 peaks challenge a try," he said.

Covid 19 pandemic delayed his mission to climb all 14 highest peaks twice. He had completed the first round of his 14 peak ascent in 2019 once he climbed Mount Makalu. He had to wait for two more years to start his mission again.

Sanu climbed most of these peak while leading expedition teams. However, this summer he wants to climb Gasherbrum II regardless of whether he has a team or not. "I don't expect much from the record personally. I am doing it because it I think it's achievable for me, I can do it and it will also be a record for my country" he said.

Sanu's other achievements include climbing Shishapangma from steep southern face in 2011. The most common route for ascent is from northwest face.

Shishapangma was his first 8,000 meter peak, which he climbed in 2006. "I did not have any experience of climbing mountains till then. But when I saw the mountain, I felt like I could run up and down to the top and back within a day," he recalled.

Ever since his first climb, he is hooked. "I find peace of mind in the mountain," he said.

His passion for climbing drove him to lead expedition teams on to the world's highest peaks. He has been in guiding for little over two decades now.

Another of his team member, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita created a record of becoming the first Nepali woman to summit eight peaks above 8,000m. She has done Mount Everest, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Makalu, Annapurna and K2. She was in a team of first Nepali women to summit K2 in 2014 along with Maya Sherpa, and Dawa Yangzum Sherpa.

Other climbers in the team include Van Nguyen (USA), Savita Kanswal (India), Dandu Sherpa and Ang Chhongbi Sherpa. The team of climbers led by record holding mountaineer Mingma Dorchi Sherpa, who is also founder of Pioneer Adventure. 

All the climbers at Makalu are now headed to base camp. This year’s spring expedition will come to an end next week. Many are on their way home. According to expedition organizers, this season has remained largely successful and uneventful. Very few casualties were reported and cases of rescue operations also remained significantly low.