Rope fixing team opens summit route on Ama Dablam
Heavy snow delayed the climb, but the EOAN-led team reached the summit on Sunday noon while laying down the lines for the fall climbing season.
EOAN
A rope-fixing team successfully reached the summit of Mount Ama Dablam (6,812m) on Sunday afternoon, opening the route for hundreds of climbers aiming to scale one of the most iconic peaks in the Khumbu region this autumn, according to organizers.
“The team reached the summit at 12:50 PM while fixing the ropes for climbers,” said Dawa Sherpa Lama, the rope-fixing coordinator for autumn climbing expeditions under the Expedition Operators Association of Nepal (EOAN).
This marks the second summit route opened this season by EOAN itself. EOAN Treasurer Dawa Sherpa also coordinated the rope-fixing on Mount Manaslu (8,163m), where EOAN-employed climbers successfully completed the route to the summit on September 20. Following this, nearly all climbers were able to reach the summit. Nepal had issued 374 climbing permits for Manaslu this season.
In a shift from tradition, EOAN has taken full responsibility for rope-fixing duties this season, rather than assigning the task to a specific outfitter. Professional climbers are selected by the association to fix lines on major Himalayan peaks, though EOAN continues to collaborate with outfitters for logistical support.
The seven-member rope-fixing team on Ama Dablam was led by Nuru Wangchhu Sherpa. The team included Namgel Dorjee Tamang, Lal Kumar Tamang, Pasang Tenji Sherpa, Ming Norbu Sherpa, and Guru Jenjen Bhote.
“Our original target was to reach the summit by October 10, but heavy snowfall delayed our progress,” said Dawa Sherpa. “The blizzard caused by the tail end of the monsoon forced us to pause. We resumed work on October 8, once the weather improved.”
Each climbing season, specialized Sherpa teams install and maintain fixed ropes along summit routes, making ascents possible for commercial expeditions.
According to the Department of Tourism, Nepal has issued 171 climbing permits for Ama Dablam this season.
Ama Dablam is renowned for its striking beauty and technical climbing challenges. The peak also holds deep cultural significance for the local Sherpa community.
