Pasang Lhamu becomes first Nepali woman to scale Nanga Parbat

Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita becomes the first Nepali female climber to summit world’s ninth highest mountain.

Jul 03, 2022 | Everest Chronicle

Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita scaled Mount Nanga Parbat (8,126m) in Pakistan becoming the first Nepali female climber to stand atop the world’s ninth highest mountain. 

Akita climbed the mountain on July 1, expedition organizer Pioneer Adventures said. “I received a confirmation call just this morning,” said Nivesh Karki, General Manager of the outfitter. 

Summit Karakoram, a Pakistani outfitter, wrote on Facebook that there was a delay in confirming Akita's ascent as her satellite phone was down. They wrote that they have spoken to Akita about her summit attempts now that she has reached a town.

This is her eighth out of 14 peak above 8,000m. She is the first Nepali female climber to achieve this feat. “She will attempt to climb the remaining three 8000er peak in Pakistan this summer,” said Karki. If she succeeds, she will have climbed 11 of 14 peaks.

Akita has yet to summit Manaslu, Cho You and Shishapangma. while Manaslu is climbed from Nepal, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma are climbed from China. Nepali climbing guides are set out to open a commercial route onto Cho Oyu from the Nepal side this October. She plans to scale both the peaks in autumn this year. If China opens Shishapangma for foreign climbers, Akita plans to scale it too and achieve the 14 peaks feat within this year. 

Akita was the first Nepali woman to become a mountaineering instructor. She was one of the three Nepali female climbers to summit K2 in 2014. She won the National Geographic’s People’s Choice Adventurer in 2016. She was awarded with International Alpine Solidarity Awards in the same year for her ‘generosity, courage and tenacity’. She worked tirelessly to serve the earthquake affected community in different parts of Nepal during 2015.

Dawa Yangzum Sherpa, who is also in Karakoram, is another Nepali female climber right behind Akita in the race to summit 14 peaks above 8,000m. She has already climbed 7 peaks. 

Poornima Shrestha, another female climber, has also climbed seven peaks above 8,000m in Nepal. She did not join fellow Nepali climbers in Pakistan due to lack of funds.

Related Articles

For Sherpas, by Sherpas

A pair of Sherpa entrepreneurs have introduced affordable high-quality technical gear into the Nepali market.

Dec 07, 2021 | Everest Chronicle

Thanks to COVID, Confusion Reigns around Extension of Everest Permits

Last spring, many expedition organizers and climbers cancelled their expeditions due to rampant COVID-19 infections at Everest Base Camp, nearly all of whom want to climb again. But Nepal’s Department of Tourism is giving mixed messages around the possibility of extending unused climbing permits.

Jan 22, 2022 | Everest Chronicle

Kami Rita Eyes 26th Ascent of Mount Everest

Kami Rita Sherpa, the legendary guide who has summited Mount Everest more than any other human in recorded history, is planning to climb the world’s highest peak one more time. Sherpa, who first climbed Everest in 1994, was planning to summit the peak twice last year. He later aborted his second attempt after reaching Camp III due to bad dreams. This year, he will be guiding a team of American climbers.

Feb 02, 2022 | Everest Chronicle

Jost Kobusch just doesn’t care 

The ambitious German mountaineer speaks to Everest Chronicle about his second attempt to climb Everest solo, in winter, and without supplemental oxygen.

Feb 07, 2022 | Dewan Rai

When a summit isn’t actually a summit, but still somehow is

Mingma G’s bold and public ascent to the true summit of Manaslu should have ended the debate over the mountain’s highest point entirely. But instead, it seems to have brought up more questions than answers.

Feb 11, 2022 | Dewan Rai

Bad weather delays Cho Oyu winter ascent 

Gelje Sherpa’s team is now considering a second push to the summit of Cho Oyu after strong winds and deteriorating weather conditions ended their summit bid. Another team led by Mingma Dorchi and Pioneer Adventure is at their base camp waiting for a weather window.

Feb 21, 2022 | Everest Chronicle

Everest expedition operators fear another chaotic year

With the ongoing covid pandemic, travel restrictions to China, and continued global uncertainty, Nepal’s expedition operators are facing another difficult year.

Feb 24, 2022 | Dewan Rai