A team of Nepali climbers, led by Vinayak Jaya Malla, successfully completed the first ascent of Patrasi Peak, marking the inaugural summit of the peak situated in western Nepal bordering Tibet.
Malla, an IFMGA Mountain Guide, and his team reached the 6,450-meter summit in the Jumla district at 16:35 on June 12, 2024.
The project, named “Project: Light and Fast,” emphasized a minimalist alpine climbing style with only essential gear.
Officials at the Department of Tourism separately confirmed the ascent, describing it as positive news for the promotion of climbing activities in Nepal’s least explored Western Himalaya.
“We are thrilled to share this achievement,” Malla posted on Instagram. “We embarked on this expedition to highlight the potential of our home country for alpinism and sustainable mountaineering.”
According to Malla, the expedition had three main objectives: to achieve the first ascent of Patrasi, to promote alpinism and sustainable mountaineering in Nepal, and to showcase the beauty of far-west Nepal.
Malla is the same guide who, along with other climbing guides, opened the route after a cornice collapse between the South Summit and Hillary Step of Mount Everest in May, which claimed the lives of British climber Daniel Paterson and his guide, Pastenji Sherpa.
The other team members of the Patrasi mission included Pasang Rinzee Sherpa and Pasang Kami Sherpa, both experienced mountaineers.
The team received financial backing from the UK-based Mount Everest Foundation, marking the first grant of its kind awarded to a Nepali team.
The achievement marks a significant milestone in promoting alpinism and sustainable mountaineering in the country’s western highlands with vast potential for adventure tourism.
The expedition organizer, Seven Summit Treks, also celebrated the historic ascent on Instagram.
“We at Seven Summit Treks are honored to have been the logistical partner for this groundbreaking project,” the company said. “It has been wonderful to work alongside these rising mountaineering stars and to play a part in this pioneering climb.”
Nepal, the home to eight of the world’s 14 highest peaks above 8,000 meters, offers thousands of smaller peaks suitable for both conventional mountaineering and rock climbing. Currently, the Department has opened 414 peaks, nearly all above 6,000 meters, for climbing with permits, while the Nepal Mountaineering Association manages permits for approximately two dozen peaks. Among these designated peaks, 72 are yet to be climbed.
