Nepal's mountaineering community will gather in Kathmandu on Wednesday to pay a final tribute to Nirmal Purja 'Nimsdai', the record-breaking climber who died in an avalanche on Pakistan's Broad Peak last month.

The Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) said the farewell ceremony, including a guard of honour, would be held at Nimsdai Square at the Hotel Marriott from 3 pm on August 26.

Nimsdai was among 10 climbers swept away by an avalanche on the 8,051-metre Peak in Pakistan's Karakoram range on July 30.

The former British Gurkha soldier became one of the world's best-known mountaineers after climbing all 14 of the world's peaks above 8,000 metres in a record six months and six days in 2019.

He continued to push the limits of high-altitude climbing, breaking records with historic feats including the first winter ascent of K2, completing all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks twice, including once without supplemental oxygen. He earned around two dozen Guinness World Records for his achievements in the mountains.

But perhaps his greatest legacy in Nepal will be as the mountaineer who helped put Nepali climbers on the global stage. Nimsdai was a powerful advocate for recognising Nepali high-altitude guides not merely as support staff, but as climbers in their own right — the men and women who lead foreign clients to the summits of the world’s highest mountains.

His success helped transform Nepal’s mountaineering industry, challenging long-held perceptions of commercial climbing and changing how Nepali climbers were seen at home and abroad. He inspired a new generation to take on the mountains, dream bigger and believe that they, too, could achieve the extraordinary.

His influence extended far beyond mountaineering, inspiring young Nepalis to dream big and pursue their ambitions with determination.

Nimsdai’s body was recovered from the mountain nearly a week after the incident and flown to Britain, where his family will perform his final rites on Wednesday.

Tuesday's gathering will give Nepal's climbing community a final opportunity to honour Purja's life, courage and legacy.

"Let us come together as one mountain community to pay our final respects and honour the extraordinary life, courage and legacy of Nimsdai," the NMA said in a notice, urging climbers and well-wishers to attend.

Meanwhile, Purja's family has urged members of the public not to travel to his funeral in Dorset unless they have received official confirmation, citing strict venue capacity, security restrictions and forecasts of heavy rain.

In a message issued on behalf of the family, Kamal Bahadur Purja, chairman of the Eastleigh Gurkha Nepalese Association, said the funeral committee had received more names than the venue could accommodate and could accept no further attendees.

Those who have already received official confirmation may attend, subject to security and access procedures, he said.

The family also urged elderly and vulnerable people, and children under 10, not to travel if weather conditions were difficult.

An alternative community ceremony will be held at Highbridge Farm in Allbrook, Eastleigh, at 10:30 am on Wednesday, allowing those unable to attend the funeral to gather, pray and pay their final respects.

"We would never wish to prevent anyone from attending such an important occasion," the family said, apologising for restrictions it said were beyond its control.

The statement said that while mourners would traditionally be welcomed openly in Nepal, the family had to respect British laws, security requirements and the practical arrangements surrounding the funeral.

Purja's death prompted tributes across Nepal and the international mountaineering community.

"Although we may be separated by distance, we will all remain united in our prayers, love and respect," the family said.

Nepal’s only mountaineer member of parliament, and co-owner of Elite Exped, Mingma Gyabu Sherpa, former deputy speaker Indira Rana Magar, and renowned mountaineer Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, known as Mingma G, have travelled to the UK to attend Nimsdai’s final funeral rites.