Against the backdrop of mounting criticism over the increasing number of climber deaths, Nepal has introduced a new regulation for the upcoming 2024 spring climbing season on Mount Everest and other peaks, mandating climbers to utilize electronic devices designed to locate missing climbers or their remains.
The RECCO device, as it’s known, is intended for locating climbers who go missing in the mountains, said Rakesh Gurung, a director at the Department of Tourism. “It is useful, affordable, easily available, and very effective in saving lives,” said Gurung.
The introduction of RECCO follows a particularly deadly expedition season on Everest last year that saw 17 fatalities. Of these, seven bodies believed to be buried under snow, remain undiscovered. The 2023 spring season was also the busiest climbing season for the southern side in Nepal, with 478 permits issued.
Gurung said that many agencies have been using the RECCO device for several years and have found it instrumental in locating missing climbers and saving lives. Under the new regulation, agencies will be required to provide the tracking device to climbers themselves. “The tracking device has to be inserted into their jacket. Some companies’ jackets already have built-in designs to fit such devices. If not, climbers would have to fit it manually,” Gurung explained.
According to the RECCO website, the RECCO devices come in various shapes and sizes, often integrated into various products and apparel. These devices serve as passive transponders, making individuals searchable to rescuers without requiring any power source. They are designed to last a lifetime without aging or wearing out, providing an added layer of safety for outdoor enthusiasts. They are integrated into products from over 150 brands and are also available as standalone attachments for helmets and backpacks.
Rescue teams utilize handheld detectors weighing 1 kg to locate RECCO reflectors within a range of up to 80 meters through air and 20 meters through packed snow, aiding in avalanche rescues. Additionally, SAR helicopter detectors cover large areas swiftly, enabling rescuers to search 1km² within 6 minutes by sending radar signals echoed back by the RECCO reflectors to locate lost individuals.
The introduction of this new rule has elicited a mixed reaction from climbers and expedition agencies. While some support it, others view it as a distraction from addressing the underlying issues leading to mountaineering-related deaths. They questioned the usefulness of RECCO while many agencies are already using GPS devices.
Khimlal Gautam, a government liaison officer and experienced Everest climber, lauded the decision, citing the challenges in tracing missing climbers in mountainous terrain. “Initiative like this helps make mountaineering safer,” said Gautam.
Mountain guide and renowned high altitude rescuer, Narendra Shahi Thakuri, acknowledged that several agencies in Nepal have been using the RECCO device but emphasized its mixed success rate.
“The RECCO reflector has been in use for many years. I think many expedition agencies use it. It can be beneficial in locating individuals buried in snow, functioning much like a mirror. To locate the reflector, one must scan with a detector,” said Thakuri.
Sherpa guides and rescuers have expressed skepticism about the device’s effectiveness in extreme terrain like Everest although they say that it can be useful on smaller peaks.