Mountaineering world mourns Nimsdai, the man who changed mountaineering

From royal tributes to messages from fellow climbers, the death of the Nepali-British record-breaker in the Broad Peak avalanche has prompted an extraordinary outpouring of grief for a man who transformed Himalayan mountaineering.

Aug 02, 2026 | Everest Chronicle

An outpouring of grief has swept across the global mountaineering community as tributes flood social media and climbing forums for Nirmal Purja, widely known as Nimsdai with fans and fellow climbers remembering the record-breaking Nepali-British mountaineer as a pioneer who redefined what was possible in the high Himalayas.

Messages of sorrow and admiration have come from every corner of the climbing world, from legendary figures to aspiring mountaineers who drew inspiration from Purja's relentless pursuit of the world's most formidable peaks. His final social media post, "Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down. I take zero mountains for granted. Not one," has been shared thousands of times, with many expressing disbelief that the man who had conquered so many summits would not return from this one.

The confirmation of Purja's death came on Saturday from Elite Exped, the expedition company he co-founded, which announced that the 43-year-old and nine members of his multinational team perished in an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan's Karakoram range. The team was struck at approximately midday on Thursday at an altitude of around 6,600 metres, and recovery operations have since located multiple bodies, according to Pakistani authorities. Among the deceased are six Nepali guides, including Pur Bahadur Gurung, Nima Sherpa, Kili Pemba Sherpa, Gyalu Sherpa and Nawang Thindu Sherpa, along with climbers from Pakistan, China, the United States and Oman.

Purja held multiple Guinness World Records, including the most true-summit ascents of the 8,000-metre peaks (49 as of September 2025) and the oldest person to climb Everest and Lhotse without supplementary oxygen. He shot to global fame in 2019 by climbing all 14 eight-thousanders in 189 days, a record chronicled in the Netflix documentary 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible. He completed the feat again in 2024 without supplemental oxygen.

Guinness World Records Editor-in-Chief Craig Glenday said: "Nims continually pushed the limits of what the human body is capable of, pioneering a form of mountaineering that challenged him as well as the entire climbing community. His commitment to championing the incredible contribution made by the Sherpa guides and porters will also be a lasting legacy."

Tributes poured in from the mountaineering elite. Italian legend Reinhold Messner wrote: "What remains is not only grief over his death, but also the memory of a life he lived to the fullest."

Nepal's Prime Minister Balendra Shah said the loss had "shocked us," extending condolences to the families of all 10 climbers. UK Defence Secretary Wes Streeting also expressed sorrow, calling Purja "an inspirational man." The Prince of Wales said: "Nims served with distinction in the British Armed Forces... His relentless pursuit of what seemed impossible, combined with his humility and selflessness, made him truly unique."

The Nepal Mountaineering Association issued a statement on Sunday expressing its deepest condolences to everyone involved in the tragedy.

Lhakpa Sherpa, a veteran mountaineer with over 40 years of Himalayan experience and the woman with the most Everest summits, reflected on the tragedy, noting that warming conditions have made the peaks more unstable, loosening rock and increasing avalanche risk. "You cannot take risks when it comes to weather. The mountains will always be there, you can always come back," he said. "I feel like I've lost many children."

Russian climber Rustam Nabiev, who had met Purja on Elbrus in 2021, also paid tribute, recalling how Purja had offered him words of encouragement before his Manaslu ascent. Nabiev confirmed that his own Sherpa, Kili Pemba, was among those lost in the tragedy.

Bear Grylls wrote: "We will never forget you Nims and your unstoppable spirit."

Osprey Europe posted: "We are saddened to learn of the passing of our former ambassador, Nirmal Purja. Our thoughts are with his family, friends, and all who knew him."

Mountaineer Chhang Dawa Sherpa wrote: "You elevated Nepali mountaineering onto the world stage. What you achieved is far more than a collection of world records – it is a legacy that can never be erased."

Purja, a former British special forces soldier awarded an MBE in 2018, had become a symbol of courage and determination for millions. His death, alongside his nine teammates, marks one of the worst mountaineering disasters in recent years. The climbing community mourns not only a record-breaker but a figure who redefined high-altitude possibility and championed the Sherpa community's vital role.

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