Kristin Harila summits Broad Peak; lags behind Nimsdai's record
Norwegian climber Kristin Harila has completed her ninth peak within 92 days in her 14 peaks mission as she summits Broad Peak.
Norwegian climber Kristin Harila on Thursday summited Mount Broad Peak (8,051m) along with her two Nepali climbing guides –Pasdawa Sherpa and Dawa Ongju Sherpa, said her organizer.
“They reached the summit of Broad Peak at 8.50am local time. They topped out in two nights from the base camp,” said Pemba Sherpa, one of the founders of 8K Expedition, Kristin’s outfitter.
This was the trio’s ninth 8,000er which they completed in 92 days. Earlier Pasdawa set a new record by climbing top five 8,000ers in the shortest time.
Kristin is in a mission to finish climbing all 14 peaks above 8000m in 6 months – similar to the record set by Nirmala Purja aka Nimsdai in 2019 during his Project Possible mission. Through her own 14 peaks mission, Kristin wants to show that women are equally competent climbers capable of achieving any mountaineering feat.
She is taking Pasdawa and Dawa Ongju throughout the mission. If they succeed, the trio will be achieving the 14 peak feat together.
As she is ticking off her 8000ers, she has beaten some of the previous fastest climb records set by Nimsdai. She now lags behind by a few days towards the end of the second phase in Karakorum compared to Nimsdai.
After successful summit of K2 on July 21 matching Nimsdai’s record of summiting 8 peaks within 70 days, Kristin and her companions took one week to summit Broad Peak. Nimsdai had done K2 and Broad Peak in two days.
Nimsdai had concluded the second phase of his 14 peaks mission in 95 days. This included all 8000ers of Karakorum. Kristin still has Gasherbrum I and II left to summit, and to catch up with Nimsdai she has 3 days left.
Climbing GI and GII within 3 days is next to impossible. But her organizers are optimistic about her overall mission. “She will catch up soon,” said Pemba.
After finishing peaks in Pakistan, the 14 peak record chasers have three peaks left: Manaslu (8,163m), Cho Oyu (8,188m), and Shishapangma (8,027m). Manaslu lies in Nepal, while Shishapangma lies entirely in Tibet. Cho Oyu straddles Nepal-Tibet border, but climbed from Tibet side till date.
This year, Nepali mountaineers are set to open commercial route for Cho Oyu from Nepal side. If they succeed, Kristin will be able to scale 13 peaks within this fall, except Shishapangma. China has closed down its borders owing to COVID-19 and hasn’t reopened yet.
Two Nepali climbers Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita and Chhiring Namgel Sherpa also summited Broad Peak along with Kristin’s team. Broad Peak was Akita’s ninth 8000er, becoming the first Nepali woman to summit nine 8,000er.
On Wednesday, Taiwanese climber Tseng Ko-Erh aka Grace Tseng also scaled Broad Peak without using supplementary oxygen, ticking off her tenth 8000er.
Grace also climbed K2 without supplemental oxygen in July 22. She is the first Taiwanese to scale K2. The 29-year-old also became the world’s youngest female climber to summit K2 without supplemental oxygen.
Nepali climbers Nima Gyalzen Sherpa and Ningma Dorje Tamang led her to the summit. This was Nima Gyalzen’s 12th 8000er.
Chinese climber He Jing on Wednesday summited Broad Peak without using supplemental oxygen. According to Seven Summit Treks, her outfitter, she is the world’s first female climber to scale four 8,000ers in 75 days without using bottled oxygen. Earlier, she scaled Mount Everest (8,848.86m), Lhotse (8,515m), K2 (8,611m) and Broad Peak.
Similarly, Romanian Adrian Laza, Japanese Naoko Watanabe, Iranian Fasaneh Hesami Fard, and Nepali guides Tenjing Sherpa, Chhangba Sherpa, Fura Tshering Sherpa, Mingtemba Sherpa and Ngima Tashi Sherpa also summited the world’s 12th highest peak.
