Kili Pemba Sherpa completes all 14 eight-thousanders with Nanga Parbat summit
Nepali guide reaches the rare mountaineering milestone as Chinese climber Wang Zhong records his 11th 8,000-metre summit.
PC: Imagine Nepal
Nepali climber Kili Pemba Sherpa completed the coveted challenge of climbing all 14 of the world's mountains above 8,000 metres after summiting Pakistan's Nanga Parbat, expedition organisers said.
The senior guide with Imagine Nepal Trek and Expedition reached the 8,125-metre peak on Friday alongside fellow Nepali guide Lakpa Chhiri Sherpa and Chinese climber Wang Zhong.
"Senior climbing guide Kili Pemba Sherpa of Imagine Nepal Trek and Expedition reached the summit of Nanga Parbat (8,125m) this morning, completing all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks," said Imagine Nepal.
The team reached the summit at 10:42 a.m. Pakistan time after a rapid four-day ascent from base camp, taking advantage of a favourable weather window.
Nanga Parbat, the world's ninth-highest mountain, is regarded as one of the Himalayas' most formidable peaks because of its steep terrain and objective hazards. The mountain marks the western end of the Himalayan range.
Born in Rolwaling in Nepal's Dolakha district, Kili Pemba has built a career guiding climbers on the world's highest peaks.
His climbing record includes 15 ascents of Mount Everest and two of K2, the world's second-highest mountain.
He was among the 10 Nepali climbers who made history with the first winter ascent of K2 in January 2021, ending decades of unsuccessful attempts on the last of the world's 8,000-metre peaks yet to be climbed in winter. The feat earned the team international recognition and a Guinness World Record.
Kili Pemba also played a key role in establishing the route to the true summit of Manaslu in 2021 alongside Mingma G, helping correct years of disputed summit claims after it became clear many climbers had stopped short of the mountain's highest point.
Beyond his personal achievements, Kili Pemba has guided several notable climbers to major milestones, including Chinese double-leg amputee Xia Boyu, who reached the summit of Everest in 2018 and Russian double-leg amputee Rustam Nabiev, whom he guided to the summit of Manaslu in 2021.
Friday's climb also marked the 11th eight-thousander for Wang Zhong, who now has Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak and Shishapangma remaining to complete all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres.
