Kanchanjunga uncertain, no summit in Dhaulagiri this season
Rope fixing team retreated from 7,800m in Kanchenjunga, while summit push on Dhaulagiri has been aborted entirely after a month-long attempt to open route to the summit.
The attempt for a summit push on Kanchenjunga faced a setback as climbers were forced to retreat from near the pinnacle due to jet stream and an avalanche. Despite reaching as high as an altitude of 7,800 meters, the climbers were compelled to descend due to safety concerns, expedition organizers said.
All climbers have safely returned to the base camp and will make another attempt in around a week when the weather is expected to improve, said Lhakpa Sherpa of 8 K Expeditions. Some agencies are waiting for additional supplies, such as oxygen, from Kathmandu after their stock ran out.
Besides 8 K Expeditions, some other agencies including Seven Summit Treks and Imagine Nepal also have groups waiting for favorable weather windows to climb the peak.
A total of 35 climbers have obtained permits for Mount Kanchenjunga, the third-highest mountain in the world, according to the Department of Tourism. The peak is known for its remoteness, requiring as long as 12 days of trekking to reach the base camp. Supplies also need to be airlifted by helicopters from Kathmandu.
Similarly, rope fixing in Dhaulagiri has been aborted due to extreme weather condition. The team has arrived in Kathmandu for a rest. Organizer said there will be no more attempts. “There will be no summit of Dhaulagiri this season,” said Thaneswar Guragai, General Manager of Seven Summit Treks.
Lakpa Sherpa, who earlier laid a fixed line to Makalu summit, also led team of climbers to open the route on Dhaulagiri. “Weather is extremely bad. Our team reached Dhaulagiri last month. They started work immediately. They tried all possible ways, but it was impossible,” he told Everest Chronicle.
Nepal has issued 28 climbing permits for Dhaulagiri.
