Gexi Luori makes Everest-Lhotse double twice in single season
Chinese climber completes unprecedented repeat ascents of both 8,000-metre peaks, setting a new benchmark in rapid Himalayan climbing.
PC: Seven Summit Treks
Chinese climber Gexi Luori has claimed a rare place in Himalayan climbing history after summiting both Mount Everest and Lhotse twice in a single season, an achievement expedition organisers say has never previously been recorded.
According to Seven Summit Treks, Gexi first summited Everest at 7:01 a.m. on May 17 before climbing Lhotse the following morning at 7:50 a.m. He returned to the two peaks days later, reaching the summit of Lhotse again on May 25 before standing atop Everest for a second time at 3:30 a.m. on Wednesday.
The gap between his two Everest ascents was just nine days, 20 hours and 15 minutes, setting what organisers described Chinese climber completes unprecedented repeat ascents of both 8,000-metre peaks, setting a new benchmark in rapid Himalayan climbing.
as a new benchmark in rapid high-altitude climbing.
Double ascents of Everest within a single season are themselves uncommon, given the physical toll of repeated climbs above 8,000 metres. Repeating both Everest and neighbouring Lhotse in the same season pushes the feat into even rarer territory, demanding prolonged exposure to extreme altitude and repeated rotations through the upper mountain.
The achievement adds to a spring season already marked by record traffic, speed ascents and milestone climbs on the world’s highest peaks, where commercial logistics and favourable weather windows have enabled increasingly ambitious objectives.
Seven Summit Treks, expedition organiser, congratulated the climber on what it described as a “historic first in Himalayan mountaineering” and wished him a safe descent to Base Camp.
