Mount Gasherbrum I (8,080m), the world’s eleventh-highest mountain, recorded its first successful summit of the season on Sunday, with 11 climbers reaching the peak amid a difficult and unpredictable Karakoram climbing season.

Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, founder of Imagine Nepal, guided a team of three climbers to the summit on Sunday morning. Climbers from 8K Expeditions and Seven Summit Treks also summited the peak, according to their respective teams.

Among the summiteers, Dr. Sashko Kedev of North Macedonia achieved a historic milestone, becoming the first climber from his country to complete all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks, according to Imagine Nepal. A cardiologist-turned-politician, Kedev first summited Everest in 2009 and resumed his quest to complete the 14-peak challenge following the COVID-19 pandemic. His final climb—Gasherbrum I—marks the culmination of a decades-long mountaineering journey.

Nepali climber Ngima Nuru Sherpa also summited, marking his 11th eight-thousander, while Chinese mountaineer Wang Zhong completed his ninth, according to Imagine Nepal. For Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, also known as Mingma G, this was his second successful ascent of Gasherbrum I.

Meanwhile, Italian climber Marco Confortola summited the mountain without the use of supplemental oxygen. He was accompanied by Pasang Ngima Sherpa and Lakpa Tasi Sherpa, according to Seven Summit Treks. Confortola is one of Europe’s most experienced mountain guides, having received the UIAGM/IFMGA Alpine Guide certification in 1993.

Other climbers who reached the summit include Ukrainian Pavlo Sydorenko and Polish climber Magdalena Arcimowicz, who were supported by Nepali guides Migma Dorchi Sherpa and Pem Lakpa Sherpa of 8K Expeditions.

Karakoram season remains fraught with uncertainty and danger. 8K Expeditions described this season as one of the most challenging in recent years, citing dry conditions, a shortage of manpower, and highly unpredictable weather as major obstacles.

Initially, the rope-fixing team had planned to open the route on Gasherbrum II, but a sudden shift in weather conditions forced a change in strategy. The team instead redirected their efforts toward Gasherbrum I, which was successfully summited.

"After returning to Base Camp, the team plans to make a summit attempt on Gasherbrum II," said Summit Karakoram, which partnered with 8K Expeditions for the route-fixing operation.

Concerns are growing about the feasibility of further climbs in the region. “The weather forecast for K2 and Broad Peak remains unfavorable. Camps have still not been established at Camp III on K2, casting serious doubt over summit attempts on K2, Gasherbrum II, and Broad Peak this year,” the statement added.

Tragedy also struck on K2 this week. An avalanche on Friday claimed the life of a Pakistani climber, while three others, including two Nepali Sherpas, sustained injuries. The route-fixing team took nearly a month to establish Camp II and is now attempting to reach Camp III despite ongoing bad weather, according to sources at base camp.