Garrett Madison climbs Everest for 16th time
American guide becomes second most successful non-Nepali climber on world’s highest mountain, behind Britain’s Kenton Cool
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Garrett Madison, a veteran American expedition leader, summited Mount Everest for the 16th time on Tuesday morning, becoming the second most successful non-Nepali climber on the mountain by number of ascents.
According to Iswari Paudel, managing director of Himalayan Guides, Madison reached the summit at around 9:50 a.m. alongside four other climbers supported by the company.
Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, has guided professionally since 1999, beginning on Mount Rainier before establishing himself as one of the most recognisable foreign guides on Everest.
With his 16th summit, Madison moves ahead of American climber Dave Hahn, whose 15 Everest ascents stood as the foreign-climber benchmark for more than a decade. Madison had equalled Hahn’s record last year.
Only Kenton Cool, the British climber who reached the summit for a 20th time this season, has more Everest ascents among non-Nepali climbers.
The overall record remains with Kami Rita Sherpa, who has climbed Everest 32 times. Fellow Nepali climber Pasang Dawa Sherpa, also known as Pa Dawa Sherpa, follows closely with 31 ascents.
Madison’s latest summit adds to a season marked by record traffic and milestone achievements on the world’s highest mountain, where veteran guides continue to dominate the upper ranks of Everest’s ascent history.
