French climbers make first ascent of Jannu East
Alpine-style climb conquers one of Nepal’s last unclimbed technical peaks, setting a new standard in Himalayan mountaineering.
PC: Benjamin Védrines' Instagram post
Two French climbers have successfully completed the first ascent of Jannu East (7,468m), a previously unclimbed and technically demanding peak in eastern Nepal, according to the Department of Tourism.
Benjamin Védrines and Nicolas Jean reached the summit in alpine style on October 19, confirmed Himal Gautam, Director at the Department.
“The duo has reached the summit, and they are currently on their way back. We are yet to receive a full briefing on the details of the ascent,” Gautam told Everest Chronicle.
Jannu East—also known as Kumbhakarna—is located in Nepal’s remote Taplejung district, near the India-Nepal border in the Kanchenjunga region. The peak is regarded as one of the most technically challenging climbs in the Himalayas.
“What the duo achieved is an incredible feat. Climbing a remote and technically demanding peak like Jannu East in pure alpine style speaks volumes about their skill and determination,” said Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, popularly known as Mingma G, a renowned mountaineer and the first Nepali to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks without supplemental oxygen.
Mingma G, known for his solo ascent of Chobutse (6,686m) in his home valley of Rolwaling, emphasized that alpine-style climbing reflects the essence of true exploration.
“It requires high-level mountaineering skills, long treks, and extreme risk. It's a stark contrast to the repetitive pushes on familiar summits seen in many commercial expeditions,” he said.
According to expedition organizer Annapurna Foothill Treks and Expedition, Védrines and Jean had attempted the mountain last year as well. During that expedition, they were joined by Léo Billon, but were forced to retreat after Billon fell ill following a bivouac midway up the face.
In preparation for this year’s climb, the duo made the first ascent of nearby Anidesh Chuli (6,808m), also known as The White Wave, in late September.
Nepal has 462 peaks open for climbing, more than 100 of which remain unclimbed. Jannu East had stood as one of the most prominent among them.
The mountain also holds deep cultural and spiritual significance for the local Yakthung (Limbu) community, who call it Phaktalung. In recent years, community members have expressed concerns over climbing activities in the region and have called for a ban on expeditions, similar to restrictions enforced by the Lepcha community in Sikkim, India, on the Indian side of Kanchenjunga.
In 2024, the Limbu community formally petitioned the government to protect Jannu by restricting climbing access.
