Rope fixing team has successfully opened the route up to the South Col or Camp IV (7950m), raising hopes for an early summit in a season hit by weeks of delay in opening the icefall route.
According to the Department of Tourism, a team of climbers from Seven Summit Treks, working on behalf of the Expedition Operators’ Association Nepal, completed laying ropes from Camp II to Camp IV at 2.20 PM on Sunday.
Seven Summit Treks has employed 10 climbers to open the summit route.
The icefall doctors had opened the route from the base camp to Camp II on April 16. This is a delay of almost two weeks than usual.
“The route to Camp IV of Mount Everest and Lhotse has been opened for all climbers for rotation and acclimatization hikes,” announced the Seven Summit Treks on its Facebook post.
The rope fixing team will return to the base camp for rest and await a favorable weather to continue laying ropes to the summit from Camp IV.
Earlier this week, Mingma Sherpa of Seven Summit Treks told the Everest Chronicle that they hoped the summit rope fixing team would reach the summit by mid-May, almost the same time as in previous years.
Fixing ropes is a crucial task preceding the summit push in commercial climbing, as these secured ropes act as a lifeline for climbers navigating treacherous terrain.
While the ropes have been fixed up to Camp IV, the base camp officials said the major task of transporting logistical supplies is yet to be completed for expedition. Expedition companies are waiting for permit from the Civil Aviation Authority to airdrop necessary supplies to Camp I and II.
The Department of Tourism, due to request from stakeholders, had earlier recommended the use of choppers for airdropping supplies to Camp II. Expedition agencies have been unable to deposit gears and ration supplies to the higher camps due to the two weeks delay in opening the route through Khumbu Icefall. The Icefall doctors had to resort to opening the route through Western Spur, which has been unused since 2014 when a deadly avalanche here claimed the lives of 16 Nepali guides. This route is also longer than the usual route by almost one and a half hour, and has unstable ice condition in some of the section.
For the first-time, expedition supplies will be ferried to higher camps by choppers as time is running out to stock up the higher camps with essential supplies that are vital for a safe and successful summit attempt. Transporting these supplies through porters at this delayed hour, and using a longer and unstable route will mean that the higher camps will not be ready for summit attempt on time. The use of choppers have been allowed as a response to these extenuating circumstances in the mountain.
A total of 390 climbing permits have been issued for Everest as of Sunday, according to the Department of Tourism.