Nepal’s Department of Tourism (DoT) has issued permits to 149 climbers to ascend Mount Everest as the world’s highest peak gears up for another bustling season with the arrival of spring in the Himalayas.
According to a statement issued by DoT on Monday, a total of 149 climbers have acquired permits for Mount Everest as of April 7. There are eight teams with 119 male and 30 female climbers.
The DoT and expedition operators in Nepal anticipate a potential record-breaking number of climbers for the 2024 spring season, with hundreds already making the bookings with expedition agencies to climb the peak from Nepal side.
Rakesh Gurung, Director of DoT, revealed that approximately 400 climbers have made reservations with agencies thus far. The number could increase as there is still a month left for the summit push.
Gurung said that many climbers typically secure bookings with expedition agencies several months in advance, while others opt to obtain permits directly at the last minute. He hinted at the likelihood of another record-breaking season due to the substantial pre-bookings received. The DoT had issued 478 permits in the spring season of 2023, which saw nearly 500 successful ascents including that of Sherpa guides.
Expedition operators argued that the Nepali authorities’ decision to raise permit fees from $11,000 to $15,000 effective from 2025 may have contributed to such a robust pre-booking. Other factors such as the desire for recognition, setting records, and genuine passion for mountaineering also draw climbers to Mt Everest.
Amidst the climbing fervor, China is set to open its peaks, including Mount Everest, for ascents. Agencies estimate as many as 80 foreigners will opt climbs via the Tibetan side of Mount Everest. China has opened Everest for foreign climbers for the first time ever since it closed commercial expeditions suspended due to Covid-19 in 2019. China had allowed domestic climbers only for Everest measurement and scientific experiments.
Similar to last year, Mount Everest is expected to see a race for the highest number of ascents between two well-known Sherpa guides: Kami Rita Sherpa and Pasang Dawa Sherpa. Kami Rita has 28 ascents of Mount Everest to his name, while Pasang Dawa, who is younger, has already scaled it 27 times.
The rope fixing team, deployed in the first week of March to open the route to Camp II, has not been able to reach Camp I as a huge crevasse appeared close to Camp I. The team is struggling to find a way through it for a week now. Tshering Tenzing Sherpa, the manager of the icefall team, said the team would find a way soon.
Rope fixing is a crucial operation, which involves setting up a track, navigating the perilous Khumbu icefall with ladders and laying fixed-ropes along the route. Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) takes charge of laying ladders and ropes up to Camp II, while the Expedition Operator Association Nepal takes the responsibility of laying down rope to the summit from Camp II.

While the craze for Everest continues to grow, other eight-thousanders see a miniscule interest. Nepal is home to eight of the 14 tallest peaks in the world. A total of 15 permits have been issued for Mt Dhaulagiri I, 7 for Kanchenjunga, and 25 for Annapurna I, 10 permits for Makalu, and 45 permits for Lhotse.
According to the Himalayan database, since 1953, a total of 2,272 expeditions with 16,487 members have attempted Everest. Out of these attempts, there have been 12,145 successful ascents. Among the successful ascents, 6,214 were achieved by guides. However, there have also been 317 deaths recorded, including 198 climbers and 119 guides.