EOAN removes tons of old climbing ropes from Ama Dablam
EOAN’s first cleanup mission removes 200 kg of waste as the association takes full control of rope-fixing and mountain sanitation.
PC: Photo Courtesy: EOAN
For the first time, the Expedition Operators Association Nepal (EOAN) has carried out a cleanup operation on Mount Ama Dablam (6,812m), following the busiest autumn climbing season on record.
“The cleanup team mainly collected outdated ropes along the route up to Camp III, which weighed roughly 200 kilograms this season,” said Dawa Sherpa Lama, EOAN Treasurer, who coordinated rope-fixing operations for multiple peaks this autumn.
This marks a new initiative by EOAN, which also introduced a revised rope-fixing system this year—taking full responsibility for the task instead of assigning it to a single outfitter as in the past. EOAN has now expanded its role to include regular mountain cleanup activities.
Ama Dablam—often referred to as the “Matterhorn of the Himalaya”—is one of Nepal’s most iconic and technically demanding climbing peaks. Its steep and exposed route, which requires careful navigation across snow, ice, and rock, attracts mountaineers seeking experience before attempting higher Himalayan giants.
Besides, Ama Dablam stands out from other mountains because it offers one of the longest climbing weather windows. This autumn alone saw nearly 50 consecutive days of favorable conditions, raising concerns within the expedition community about a growing garbage problem
The accumulation of ropes along the route has become a potential hazard. This autumn, Ama Dablam saw a record-breaking 494 foreign climbers. “Old ropes along the route can pose significant risks. With the high number of climbers this season, garbage was also a concern. So we mobilized our rope-fixing team to bring down as much old rope as possible, and they collected other waste along the way,” Sherpa added.
In response, EOAN deployed a team of five experienced climbing guides to remove outdated ropes and ensure safer, more reliable routes for upcoming expeditions. The cleanup team was led by veteran climber Nuru Wangchu Sherpa of Pangboche, who has more than 20 years of Himalayan climbing experience. The team also included Namgel Dorji Tamang, Lal Kumar Tamang, Pasang Tenji Sherpa—all members of the rope-fixing crew. “We requested them to take on this important task. So, it is partly their volunteerism as well as EOAN funding,” Sherpa said.
EOAN also attempted to retrieve waste using a drone team in coordination with local authorities, but the effort was unsuccessful this time, according to Sherpa.
“This is a self-funded cleanup initiative by EOAN, and it’s an important step toward ensuring the safety of future expeditions,” Sherpa noted, adding, “We want to continue cleanup operations even on bigger mountains.”With the increasing number of climbers, waste management has become a major challenge. Sherpa explained that expedition teams rarely have the time—or motivation—to clean up after completing their climbs.
Since spring 2011, EOAN has been managing and deploying its own climbing teams for route opening and rope-fixing on major peaks including Manaslu, Himlung, Ama Dablam, Everest, and Lhotse. Until last year, rope-fixing duties were assigned to individual outfitters. Beginning this year, EOAN directly hires climbing guides to carry out rope-fixing operations on major commercial peaks.
