Bad weather dampens hope for missing Mongolian climbers on Mount Everest

With over 84 hours passed in the “death zone’’, officials increasingly lose hope of finding two Mongolian climbers alive near Everest's summit amid harsh weather

May 15, 2024 | Everest Chronicle

Authorities are increasingly losing hope of finding two Mongolian climbers alive after they vanished near the summit of Mount Everest, with search and rescue efforts hampered by harsh weather conditions.

It's been more than 84 hours since the expedition organizer heard from Usukhjargal Tsedendamba, 53, and Purevsuren Lkhagvajav, 31, who were part of a nine-member Mongolian expedition organized by 8K Expedition.

The search and rescue team has faced difficulties carrying out the search above Camp IV due to the jet stream. In fact, there is no summit for the past two days due to high wind with speed over 80km per hour. Many climbers were forced to turn back from Balcony, according to base camp managers.

Pemba Sherpa of 8K Expeditions said that the search and rescue team couldn't do anything on Wednesday due to bad weather. “We are waiting for weather to improve to send the search team above base camp,” he said.

Officials said the delays in conducting ground search in areas above Camp IV were diminishing the chances of finding them alive with each passing hour.

The areas above Camp IV, where the two climbers are believed to be, are known as the death zone—a term used for altitudes above 8,000 meters where oxygen levels are too low to support life without supplemental oxygen.

"It would be miraculous if we found them alive, as no climber, as far as I can remember, has survived for so long at that altitude," an official, who wished to remain anonymous, said, indicating that the focus has now shifted to locating the bodies.

Officials haven't been able to connect the dots to speculate on the whereabouts and what might have happened to the two climbers. As per the Department of Tourism (DoT), on May 10, the pair set out from base camp and reached Camp II. They spent the night of May 11 at Camp III. On May 12, they advanced to Camp IV and commenced their summit attempt later that day, beginning at 7 pm. They were reportedly en route to the summit when last sighted by a group of climbers from TAG Nepal on Monday morning, but no further information is available regarding their condition. The two had reportedly left the radio set meant for communication before the summit push.

The climbers had only paid for the base camp service and bottled oxygen but were climbing on their own without Sherpa assistance, according to 8K expeditions.

“They were confident about their skill and strength. They told us that they were professional climbers and need no Sherpa support," Lakpa told Everest Chronicle on Tuesday, adding, “We even offered them our guides for free, but they turned down the request.”

Rakesh Gurung, DoT chief of the Mountaineering section, said that the two Sherpas sent for search and rescue on Tuesday have been stranded at Camp IV, while the other two Sherpas dispatched have now reached Camp III.

This is the first major incident to come from the world’s highest peak this spring season. Many expedition groups have been in summit push since the ropes were laid to the summit on Friday. A total of 416 climbers have taken permits excluding Sherpa, who do not require permits, according to DoT.

Related Articles

The arduous mission of retrieving dead climbers bodies from the Everest summit

In 2017, a team of five Sherpas retrieved the dead body of Indian climber Goutam Ghosh from just 448 meters below the Everest summit.

Nov 14, 2021 | Everest Chronicle

Covid-19 fails to deter guides from doing training on mountains

Nepal, home to eight of the total 14 peaks above 8000 meters, is now facing a shortage of experienced guides as the number of aspiring climbers has been increasing in recent years.

Feb 05, 2022 | Everest Chronicle

Sherpa guides on a mission to explore Nepal’s own route for Mount Cho Oyu

To begin commercial expeditions from Nepal two groups of Sherpa are on a mission to explore a new route for Cho Oyu. Various groups working for the promotion of expeditions in Nepal’s mountains have joined their hands in this mission led by young Sherpa guides. If their mission is successful, it will be an additional option to climb Cho Oyu.

Feb 12, 2022 | Everest Chronicle

Nepal’s best rock climbing area likely to be lost to highway expansion

As one of Nepal’s most iconic, and largest, rock climbing areas faces destruction in the face of highway expansion, the local community is fighting back.

Feb 14, 2022 | Bhadra Sharma

‘The Widows of Everest’ Claims International award 

While the image of Sherpas as brave, strong, and loyal mountaineers has gathered global attention, the story of the families that are left behind is rarely told.

Apr 30, 2022 | Everest Chronicle

Indian woman dies during Everest trek

Pradnya Ashwin Samant, 55, died during treatment at Gokyo International Clinic at 2.30 PM in Gokyo of Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality on Friday, according to Nepal police inspector Shambhu Basnet.

May 07, 2022 | Everest Chronicle

Missing Tara Air plane found crashed in Mustang

Two Germons, four Indians and 16 Nepalis were travelling on plane.

May 29, 2022 | Everest Chronicle