Autumn climbing season kicks off with new rope-fixing strategy on Mount Manaslu
A seven-member team of mountain guides is scheduled to depart for base camp on Monday morning, with the goal of fixing the route to the summit by September 20.
PC: EOAN
With the start of the autumn climbing season, preparations are underway to manage expeditions on several major peaks—Mount Manaslu, Mount Ama Dablam, and Mount Himlung—key autumn destinations for climbers.
On Sunday, the Expedition Operators Association of Nepal (EOAN) held a flag handover ceremony in Kathmandu, officially launching the rope-fixing operations on Mount Manaslu. This year, EOAN has adopted a new approach, taking full responsibility for rope fixing, a departure from the traditional practice of assigning the task to a specific outfitter.
“We have formed a seven-member rope-fixing team composed of some of the best climbing guides, who will be responsible for opening the route,” said Dawa Sherpa Lama, EOAN Treasurer, who proposed the new model.
Previously, the association would assign a particular outfitter to handle rope-fixing tasks. “We realized there were technical challenges with that model,” Lama explained. “Now, the association itself hires the climbing guides. In fact, it’s our responsibility to open the route for commercial expeditions. Since a lot of resources is involved, we’ve decided to manage it directly.”
Starting this season, EOAN will also maintain a camp at the base camp to update teams on rope-fixing progress and address concerns from climbers and workers. “It was difficult to enter private outfitter tents to get updates or raise concerns,” Lama added.
Dawa Sherpa Lama will coordinate the operation from Kathmandu, while renowned climber Mingma Gyabu Sherpa (also known as Mingma David Sherpa), who is also a member of EOAN, will oversee the mission from the base camp. “Mingma will represent EOAN on-site and provide regular updates as the rope-fixing progresses,” Lama said.
The rope-fixing team, led by Tashi Sherpa, includes Tshering Bhote, Lakpa Sherpa, Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa, Hira Bhote, Pasang Sherpa, and Karma Sarki Sherpa. The team is scheduled to leave for base camp on Monday morning to begin their task. EOAN aims to complete the route setup by September 20.
While preparations are in full swing, the Department of Tourism, Nepal’s regulatory authority, has yet to issue any official permits. “There have been inquiries, but no permits have been issued so far,” said Liladhar Awasthi, spokesperson for the Department.
According to Awasthi, new climbing fees will apply starting in September. Under the revised rates, the permit fees for Mount Manaslu—the world’s eighth-highest peak—have been increased to $1,500 for spring, $3,000 for autumn, and $1,500 for winter and monsoon seasons.
Similarly, Everest climbing fees are set at $15,000 for spring, $7,500 for autumn, and $3,750 for winter. For other 8,000-meter peaks (excluding Everest and Manaslu), climbers will pay $3,000 in spring, $1,500 in autumn, and $750 in winter and monsoon seasons.
