American mountaineer and cancer survivor dies on Mount Makalu

Alexander Pancoe, who completed the Explorers Grand Slam and raised hundreds of thousands for pediatric cancer research, died while acclimatizing on the world’s fifth-highest peak.

null

May 05, 2025 | Everest Chronicle

An American climber and cancer survivor who had completed the prestigious Explorers Grand Slam has died on Mount Makalu while acclimatizing ahead of a planned summit attempt, Nepali officials confirmed on Monday.

Alexander Pancoe, 39, of Illinois, passed away Sunday night in his tent at Camp II, located at approximately 6,600 meters (21,650 feet) on Makalu. The mountain, which rises to 8,485 meters (27,838 feet), is the fifth-highest peak in the world.

Himal Gautam, director at the Department of Tourism, said Pancoe’s body will be transported to Kathmandu for autopsy before being released to his family.

“He was in his tent after having his dinner. There were no signs of a health problem,” said Iswari Paudel, managing director of Himalayan Guides, the expedition company overseeing his climb. “It was likely a heart attack.”

Pancoe was in the acclimatization phase of his expedition—a critical process climbers undertake to adjust to high altitude before pushing for the summit. He was not using supplemental oxygen.

A brain tumor survivor, Pancoe was diagnosed with a benign tumor at age 18 and underwent surgery at Lurie Children’s Hospital in Chicago. His experience led him to become a passionate advocate for pediatric brain tumor research, raising nearly $500,000 through his mountaineering efforts.

In 2019, he became the 15th American to complete the Explorers Grand Slam—an elite achievement requiring climbers to summit the highest peak on each continent and reach both the North and South Poles. He dedicated his climbs to children undergoing medical treatment, using his platform and initiative “Peaks of Mind” to raise awareness and support.

In 2024, Pancoe disclosed that he had been diagnosed with chronic myeloid leukemia (CML), a type of blood cancer. Undeterred, he continued his advocacy and climbing, attempting Makalu to raise $27,838—matching the mountain’s height in feet—for pediatric blood cancer programs.

The U.S. Embassy in Kathmandu and Pancoe’s family have been informed of his passing.

Nepal, home to eight of the world’s 14 peaks above 8,000 meters, is currently in the midst of its spring climbing season. More than 1,000 climbers have received permits to attempt various Himalayan summits, according to the Department of Tourism.

Pancoe’s death is among the first confirmed fatalities of the spring climbing season. Earlier, two Sherpa climbers went missing on Annapurna after being swept away by an avalanche near Camp III. The pair, among the most skilled and experienced mountaineers in Nepal, have not been found and are presumed dead.

Related Articles

For Sherpas, by Sherpas

A pair of Sherpa entrepreneurs have introduced affordable high-quality technical gear into the Nepali market.

Dec 07, 2021 | Everest Chronicle

Thanks to COVID, Confusion Reigns around Extension of Everest Permits

Last spring, many expedition organizers and climbers cancelled their expeditions due to rampant COVID-19 infections at Everest Base Camp, nearly all of whom want to climb again. But Nepal’s Department of Tourism is giving mixed messages around the possibility of extending unused climbing permits.

Jan 22, 2022 | Everest Chronicle

Kami Rita Eyes 26th Ascent of Mount Everest

Kami Rita Sherpa, the legendary guide who has summited Mount Everest more than any other human in recorded history, is planning to climb the world’s highest peak one more time. Sherpa, who first climbed Everest in 1994, was planning to summit the peak twice last year. He later aborted his second attempt after reaching Camp III due to bad dreams. This year, he will be guiding a team of American climbers.

Feb 02, 2022 | Everest Chronicle

Jost Kobusch just doesn’t care 

The ambitious German mountaineer speaks to Everest Chronicle about his second attempt to climb Everest solo, in winter, and without supplemental oxygen.

Feb 07, 2022 | Dewan Rai

When a summit isn’t actually a summit, but still somehow is

Mingma G’s bold and public ascent to the true summit of Manaslu should have ended the debate over the mountain’s highest point entirely. But instead, it seems to have brought up more questions than answers.

Feb 11, 2022 | Dewan Rai

Bad weather delays Cho Oyu winter ascent 

Gelje Sherpa’s team is now considering a second push to the summit of Cho Oyu after strong winds and deteriorating weather conditions ended their summit bid. Another team led by Mingma Dorchi and Pioneer Adventure is at their base camp waiting for a weather window.

Feb 21, 2022 | Everest Chronicle

Everest expedition operators fear another chaotic year

With the ongoing covid pandemic, travel restrictions to China, and continued global uncertainty, Nepal’s expedition operators are facing another difficult year.

Feb 24, 2022 | Dewan Rai